BFC NEW GEN SPONSORED VIDUR & CMMN SWDN EMERGE AS THE NEW SCANDINAVIAN MENSWEAR GUARD

Vidur FW14 Lookbook

We've all grown accustomed to the Scandinavian aesthetics employed by brands like Acne, Our Legacy, Uniforms for The Dedicated & Sandqvist. Recently there's been a band of British trained designers of Scandinavian origin or inspired aesthetically by that region and the 2 labels who are charging this new generation of Swedish via London brands are CMMN SWDN and now Vidur. 

Vidur is run by Raj Mistry and Richard Brand, who are both British trained and cite their influences as the simple fundamental nature of Nordic design that emphasizes durability and authenticity. CMMN SWDN is also run by the duo Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund both also British trained at Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion respectively. Whilst Vidur was set up in London, CMMN SWDN had its first roots in Malmo, Sweden before returning to the city where both designers trained to show under the BFC New Gen umbrella last season. 

Vidur SS14 Lookbook

Since it launched in 2012 Vidur has been a mainstay at the LCM Showrooms in London and also Paris their recent award would give them the chance to show a full collection for the first time on the runway. In my opinion they are totally deserving of the award as they managed to get the attention of buyers outside London from Back Door in Italy, One Fifteen in Taiwan, Dipol in Germany & Comme des Garcon in Japan. This external validation from overseas buyers is usually a key factor when BFC make their sponsorship decisions every season. 

CMMN SWDN SS15 ~ LCM

CMMN SWDN designers Bakir and Hedlund both garnered loads of experience whilst working at fashion houses like Wooyoungmi, COS and most recently with Kanye West in Paris. This led them to set up their label. They constantly draw inspiration from youth sub-cultures fused with elegance of classic sartorial menswear.  The label picked up pace the minute it launched winning numerous awards and is presently being stocked at Harvey Nichols, Other Shop, Peggs & Son, Start London in the UK and over 20 stockists worldwide with 5 stockists in Japan and Sweden.

CMMN SWDN SS15

Together both these brands are reinforcing the Scandinavian aesthetic and succeeding at it both home and abroad.  

Glenn Kitson Interview | Body and Sole | TGD Store

Body & Sole is The Great Divide's interview series, where we ask some of our favourite styleites some style related Qs and some completely irrelevant stuff too. It's basically a great excuse to talk to good people and make a bit of a noise about it. The second in this series following on (and what an act to follow) from Terry Ellis is none other than Glenn Kitson. For the uninitiated Glenn is the main guy behind The Rig Out, which should be your favourite 'international lifestyle magazine'. Cheekily we asked Glenn 'Laine Kitsu' Kitson to accompany the questions with DARN STEEZY outfits too  : So being a gent, Glenn obliged and curated 5 outfits from SUMMER 13 garments from Thegreat-divide.com

 

1. "Everybody wants to be a DJ everybody wants to be an emcee" - The immortal words of De La Soul are now applicable to the concept of 'styling' it seems - what separates a stylist from someone with a bag of clothes and a wealthy friend with a magazine?

Good question, I've no idea. I got into this via making the Rig Out, working with very good photographers and designers and as a result brands and agencies offered me commercial work. There's a lot more to what I do do than getting people dressed, I come up with concepts, marketing strategies, write treatments, narratives...all sorts of shit. Poncing around with clothes is about 20% of what I do.

I always think being called a stylist is a bit fruity anyway.

2. If you had the chance to direct a brand and were solely responsible for its longevity as of tomorrow - who would the it be?

I would like to bring Chipie back.

3. Are you ever tempted to start your own brand - a minds-eye collection of garb under your guidance - if so whats it called? who buys it? who sells it ?

I do. I have an idea. I don't want to let the cat out of the bag. Aside from that, there's some interesting Rig Out collabs coming next year.

4. Ronnie Barker or Ronnie Corbett as a cup of coffee companion down the allotment?

Ronnie Barker all day. As long as he doesn't bring his son.

 

Brand Focus: Our Legacy

This week’s brand focus is on Our Legacy, a menswear brand all the way from the Swedish capital. The minimalist and vintage-inspired brand reflects the stylish streets of Stockholm and has a sense of deconstructivism in its men’s fashion collection. Whilst Margiela was a big pioneer of this style for womenswear back in the 80s, there’s very little evidence of it in men’s fashion. And if it’s shown itself on the catwalks, it’s still an unobtainable look for the ordinary high street man.

Our Legacy is a very unique brand for men who appreciate the beauty and simplicity of deconstructivist fashion.  To describe this clothing brand, it could be said that it’s completely unapologetic, organic to its core and a controlled kind of chaos which is rare in today’s regimented fashion industry.

Key Pieces for SS13

What’s really stood out for most male shoppers is the vintage care and attention. Taking the most interesting and unique tailoring techniques and influences from some of our most desirable decades in fashion, Our Legacy shirts and tees are constructed to look a little alien in our century.

Some key pieces which really highlight this in SS13 include:

·         1940s Twisted Indigo Blue Oxford Shirt – this shirt is made from 100% cotton and features a minimalist button collar with luxurious Mother of Pearl buttons for something a little bit different.

·         1950s Dirty Pink Vintage Oxford Shirt – this shirt has a romantic element yet the manly tailoring remains. With a button down collar, curved hem and a relaxed fit, this shirt is an interesting piece to add to your spring wardrobe. 

·         Great Sweat 50s Sweater – with raglan sleeves, ribbed crew neck and a boucle finish which imitates the raw look of a stone surface, this classic jersey has a very funky twist. 

If you want to see a full range of what’s in for SS13, check out Oi Polloi's Our Legacy shirts and sweaters. 

How to Style Our Legacy Clothing 

Our Legacy clothing is a simple yet very considered brand. In terms of design, the processes are complex and intricate. In terms of look, the message is simple and minimal in every way. The SS13 collection is designed by deconstructing the complications of today’s modern menswear and taking a piece back to its unfinished state; this is where the raw element is apparent.

To style Our Legacy shirts and sweaters, it’s all about being effortless. A simple pair of jeans, no fuss and no need for over complicated accessories – and that’s your formula right there.