The collection is sophisticatedly rough, with a richly tactile quality. Precise cuts and immaculate tailoring take on a new meaning through the use of fabrics that have been brushed, degradè woven, needle-punched, coated, oiled and treated to get an aged patina and a modern lightness. The silhouette is dignified and proud: strong shoulders and a new emphasis on the waist hint at the composed elegance of the dandy, while slim flared trousers add a dash of urban swagger. Double-breasted and cutaway create elegant lines in movement. Solemn capes are worn on top of suits; long coats sport washed leather sleeves; vests are worn throughout with an insouciance that is both sartorial and edgy. Eye and touch are constantly stimulated: traditional patterns such as herringbone and checks are brushed away on short coats; knit is bonded with leather on an overcoat to get a firm feel; needle-punched shirts mix knit and fabric. Bouclè knits add more texture, while suits are also cut in knitted fabric. Neckties made of the same fabric of the suits and dress shirts with tonal contrast collars are a touch of sophistication that is contradicted by biker details running along tailored outerwear. The jagged play of opposites is constant.
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