‘An exhibition of August Strindberg’s self-portraits last autumn became a starting point for this collection. The piercing look of this enigmatic man is hard to escape. Strindberg was an eccentric, controversial, multifaceted artist known for his writings, plays and paintings. His personal image was strong in fact he was something of a dandy. Maybe, more than anything else, this is what came to inspire us.
There is a historic mood to the collection, with references to garments from the turn of 19th century. Military clothing such as the pea coat and parka are reworked in a modern way. Historical references clash with modern tailoring; sharp suits and a high waisted trouser with something of a 70s cut. The result is a eccentric wardrobe with almost contradictory references creating a modern look.
There is true variation in the texture and look of the materials, with an emphasis on structure and quality. Italian tailoring fabrics, structured outerwear fabrics, jacquards… Masculine materials such as classic Melton are given a modern twist by being bonded to neoprene. There is also a femininity that contrasts with the more classic materials in the collection, such as wool crepe and drapey double-faced coatings. Micro designs on wool suiting and shirting add depth. The colour card is varied but muted throughout, with an emphasis on dark shades of navy and black against dusty greens, pale greys and nudes.’